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Namibia
A Bountiful Harvest
Awaits the Adventure Traveler
Author:
Andrew Muigai
Namibia is
a largely arid country of stark rough-hewn beauty. The most vivid
images are those of a haunting technicolor landscape of swirling
orange dunes, shimmering mirages and treacherous dust devils. The
apparent desolation is deceptive and plant and animal life and even
man has adapted to this environment. The country is designed almost
specially with the active and adventure seeker in mind. Timeless
deserts, thorn bush savanna, desolate wind ravaged coastlines,
majestic canyons, and sun-baked saltpans are the bounty that awaits
the traveler.
Namibia’s top draw is the Etosha National Park, rated as one of
Africa’s finest game sanctuaries. The birding experience in the
country is truly superior. On a Namibia safari, the range of
activities you can indulge in the unsurpassable physical environment
is truly impressive. Ballooning over the desert, skydiving over land
and sea, paragliding, whitewater rafting and sand skiing along
coastal dunes are good activities for starters. More fun games to
pick from include abseiling – that most spectacular of rock sports,
coastal and fresh water angling, desert camel riding, scuba diving,
4x4 desert runs, hiking and mountaineering.
Namibia has four distinct geographical regions. In the north is
Etosha Pan, a great area for wildlife and heart of Etosha National
Park. The slender Caprivi Strip is nested between Zambia and
Botswana and is a wet area of woodland blessed with a few rivers.
Along the coast is the Namib Desert, which at the age of 80 million
years old, is said to be the world’s oldest desert. At the coast,
the icy cold Atlantic meets the blazing African desert, resulting in
dense fogs. The well-watered central plateau runs north to south,
and carries rugged mountains, magnificent canyons, rocky outcrops
and expansive plains.
Namibia, one and half times the size of France, is very sparsely
inhabited and carries only 1.8 million souls. The people are as
unique as the land they live on. The most intriguing are the San,
otherwise known as Bushmen. These most hardy of people have a highly
advanced knowledge of their environment. It is a marvelous thing how
well they are adapted to their difficult habitat. Just pause and
think that these are the only people in the world who live with no
permanent access to water. In the Kalahari Desert, one of their
domiciles, surface water is not to be found. Tubers, melons, and
other water bearing plants as well as underground sip wells supply
their water requirements.
In Namibia today, Bushmen number about 50,000. Historians estimate
that they have lived, mostly as hunters and gatherers, for at least
25,000 years in these parts of the world. Bushmen speak in a
peculiar click language and are very gifted in the arts of
storytelling, mimicry, and dance. Namibia’s other people, who are
indigenous to the continent, are mostly of Bantu origin. They are
thought to have arrived from western Africa from about 2,400 years
ago. The African groups include the Owambo, Kavango, Caprivians,
Herero, Himba, Damara, Nama and Tswana.
The Africans aside, other groups comprise about 15% of the
population and have played an important role in the emergence of the
modern nation. White Namibians amount to about 120,00 and are mainly
of German and Afrikaner heritage. Germans arrived in significant
numbers after 1884 when Bismarck declared the country a German
Protectorate. Afrikaners, white farmers of Dutch origin, moved north
from their Cape settlements, especially after the Dutch Cape Colony
was ceded to the British in 1806. This strongly independent people,
whose ancestors had lived in the Cape from 1652 resented British
control.
Two other distinct groups complete the spectrum of Namibia’s people
- Basters and Coloureds. Coloured in Namibia and southern Africa
refers to people of mixed racial heritage, black- white for example.
They have a separate identity and culture. This makes sense
considering that Namibia was run by South Africa after the First
World War. Even in pre-Apartheid South Africa, racial classification
was a fine art. The Afrikaans-speaking Basters, descended from
Hottentot women and Dutch settlers of the Cape. Alienated from both
white and black communities, they trekked northwards, finally
founding their own town Rehoboth, in 1871. Baster is actually
derived from “bastard”, but it is not derogatory, and the Basters
are indeed proud of it.
Namibia’s barren and unwelcoming coastlines served as a natural
deterrent to the ambitions of European explorers. That was until
1884 when the German merchant Adolf Luderitz established a permanent
settlement between the Namib Desert and the Atlantic seaboard that
afterwards took his name. Bismarck subsequently declared the
territory covered by Namibia a German colony and named it
Südwestafrika or South West Africa. As German settlers moved into
the interior, conflict was inevitable with the inheritors of the
land.
The German occupation was a particularly unhappy experience for the
Herero. The Herero resented the German’s harsh and racist rule and
the effect of the encroachment on their lands on their livelihood
and way of life. On the first day of the year 1904, the Herero led
by Chief Samuel Maharero, rose suddenly and unexpectedly in arms
against their colonial overlords. The Nama joined the insurrection
and the authorities did not regain control even after six months of
trying. Over 100 German settlers and soldiers died in the uprising.
Historians now consider events that followed to constitute the first
genocide of the twentieth century.
Lieutenant General Lothar von Trotha was furnished with a contingent
of 14,000 soldiers and tasked to put down the rebellion. The
governor general of the territory was then Rudolph Goering -the
father of Herman Goering, Hitler's right hand man. Lothar von Trotha
was a generation ahead of his time and his kind of thinking was to
become government policy under the Third Reich. He argued that the
Herero must be destroyed as a people and he did not wince at the
murder of women or children. At the end of it all, 100,000 Nama and
Herero were killed. The survivors were herded in concentration camps
where unspeakable things happened. The Herero fared very badly and
80% of her people perished. The population of the Nama diminished by
35-50%.
Windhoek, the capital of 165,000 people is the only true city in the
country. For those traveling to more remote regions, this is where
you settle practical matters. The positive aspects of the German
period can be seen in the charming style of older buildings in the
city. Places of interest in the city include the State Museum, State
Archives, and the Namibia Crafts Centre. The Dan Viljoen Game Park
lies 24 Km west of Windhoek on the gentle hills of Khoma Hochland.
In this resort you find ostriches, baboons, zebras and over 200
species of birds. The Waterburg Plateau Park, located 230 km from
Windhoek is popular with weekenders. This extensive mountain
wilderness is home to cheetah, leopard, kudu, giraffe, and white
rhino.
Etosha National Park is what brings wildlife lovers to Namibia. The
park is comparable in size and diversity of species with the best in
Africa. The unusual terrain of Etosha holds savanna grassland, dense
brush and woodland. But it is the Etosha Pan, a depression that
sometimes holds water and covers 5,000 sq km, that is the heart of
park. The perennial springs around the pan, attract many birds and
land animals in the dry winter months. The effect of this background
is magical and some of the best wildlife photographs have been taken
here.
There are 144 mammal species in the park and elephants are
particularly abundant. Some other interesting wildlife here includes
giraffe, leopard, cheetah, jackal, blue wildebeest, gemsbok and
black rhino. The birding is great at Etosha and over 300 bird
species have been recorded. You will get best value by spending at
least three days here. There are excellent accommodation facilities
at the three rest camps of Namutoni, Halali and Okaukuejo. The best
time to see animals is between May and September, when water draws
them in huge numbers to the edge of the pan. Etosha is 400 km to the
north of Windhoek by road.
The Fish River Canyon is unrivalled in Africa and only the Grand
Canyon in the U.S in larger. The Canyon runs for 160 km and reaches
a width of 27 km and depth of 550 m. But size alone does not explain
the appeal of the canyon. You experience incredible views at various
points along the rim. Adventure lovers do not merely come for the
views. Hiking through the canyon is the ultimate endurance adventure
for hikers. There is an established 90 km hiking trail that will
take you 4-5 days to cover.
The trail ends at Ai-Ais hot spring resort where you can unwind. You
are allowed to hike between early May and end of September. The hike
is quite strenuous and needless to say, you must be physically fit.
The authorities disbelieve the capacity of most people to undertake
the hike and will actually insist on seeing a medical certificate of
fitness before allowing you to start off. Fish River Canyon is 580
km to the south of Windhoek.
The Skeleton Coast has been the graveyard of seafarers and whales
and deserves that morbid name. The problem is the dense fogs. And
woe to the ship wreck survivor who expects respite onshore! Ahead is
the Namib Desert, one of the driest and most unwelcoming places.
Adventure travelers love trekking along the coastline as they enjoy
the stark beauty of the area. To the south at Cape Cross, you find a
seal colony carrying tens of thousands of seals. The Skeleton Coast
Park covers 16,400 sq km and begins at 355 km northwest of Windhoek.
The Portuguese explorer Diego Cao reached this part of the world in
the year 1486. He is probably one of the people whose experiences
discouraged Europeans from venturing ashore until the arrival of the
Germans 400 years later. Further south is the Namib-Naukluft
National Park, a vast wilderness covering 50,000 sq km. The
landscape is very diverse and covers mountain outcrops, majestic
sand dunes, and deep cut gorges. For really spectacular dunes, the
Sossusvlei area is unsurpassed. Here you have dunes rising to 300 m!
The orange tint giants extend as far as the horizon and the area has
an unreal, unforgettable atmosphere.
To the northeast of the country, the well-watered Kavango and
Caprivi Strip region offers an unspoilt wilderness suitable for
rugged game viewing and camping. The area also promises a feast for
bird lovers. Game reserves in the area include: Kaudom, Caprivi,
Mahango, Mudumu and Mamili. Poachers did great damage to wildlife
during the years of the civil war in neighbouring Angola. Animal
numbers are however building up rapidly. Some of the wildlife in the
region includes leopard, elephant, buffalo, cheetah, lion and
various antelope species. The Caprivi Reserve falls in an area of
swamps and flood plains. Here you have an opportunity to partake
fishing, hiking, game viewing safaris and river trips in traditional
mokoro boats.
In Namibia you can enjoy up to 300 days of sunshine. The coast is
temperate and thermometers run between 5C-25C. Inland, daytime
temperatures range from 20C-34C, but can rise to 40C in the north
and south of the country. Winter nights can be quite cold and frost
occurs over large parts of the country. The rains inland fall in
summer (November-April) and are heaviest in the Caprivi region.
Rains do not much affect travel, but beware of flash floods in the
vicinity of riverbeds. The best time to travel is over the dry
months of March to October, when it is easier to see animals at
waterholes. It is best to avoid the Namib Desert and Etosha between
December and March when it can get unbearably hot.
You can get by wearing light cottons and linens in summer. Over
winter nights and mornings, you need heavier cottons, warmer wraps
and sweaters. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, as the ground
gets very hot. Some useful stuff to pack includes: camera,
binoculars, sunglasses, sun hats, sunscreen and mosquito repellant.
Be ready for dusty conditions and carry your clothing, equipment and
supplies in dust proof bags. Do not be tempted to buy items made of
ivory. You may not be allowed to carry them through customs at home.
And it also good that you do not encourage the trade in ivory
products that keeps poachers busy.
Copyright
©
Africa Point
About the
Author:
Andrew Muigai is editor of AfricaPoint Insider online newsletter. It
is part of
AfricaPoint.com- the Africa travel website that has helped thousands
of travelers
discover
Africa. You can view more info on Namibia safari and tours at the
website.
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EYEWITNESS GUIDES
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Recommended Books
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Namibia:
The Bradt Travel Guide
(Paperback - Jul 1, 2003)
 
Namibia Travel Map
(Globetrotter Travel Map)
(Map - Dec 1, 2006)
Folded Map
 
Footprint Namibia
(Footprint Travel Guides)
(Paperback - May 18, 2006)
 
Namibia Travel Pack
(Globetrotter Travel Packs)
 
Lonely Planet
Botswana & Namibia
(Lonely Planet Travel Guides)
(Paperback - Feb 2007)
 
Namibia Travel Guide
Globetrotter Travel Guide
(Paperback - Feb 2000)
 
Footprint: Namibia
Handbook 3 Ed
(Paperback - Nov 9, 2001)
 
Adventuring in
Southern Africa:
The Great Safaris
and Wildlife Parks
of Botswana, Zimbabwe,
Zambia, Namibia,
South Africa, Malawi,
Lesotho, and Swaziland
(Paperback - Oct 28, 1997)
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