Dordogne Valley Eyewitness Travel Guide, Aquitaine, France

The Dordogne Valley, or the Perigord as it is also called by the locals, is home to many of the "Most Beautiful Villages of France". This area is not as well known as others in the country, but it is certainly one of the most beautiful. These 5 venues are among the top sites in the region, and a visit to the Dordogne is not complete without seeing them all.

1. Domme- Domme is a village situated at the top of a rocky cliff overlooking the Dordogne valley. From the lookout area, the view embraces the valley from the Montfort meander in the east, to Beynac in the west. The view of the tranquil river and fields of crops belies the violence that took place here in the middle ages. Domme is a bastide village that was founded by Philip the Bold in 1283, so it is actually newer than other villages in the area. People at the time were encouraged to go to newly founded towns, called bastides, most of which were planned around a central covered market area. There are numerous bastides in France dating from this general period. Although worth a visit any time, Domme is especially nice on market days when one will find homegrown and homemade fruits and vegetables, sausages, olives, cheeses, cured hams, and of course a staple of the Dordogne, foie gras. Check any of the local Offices of Tourism to find the schedule for markets at Domme or other villages.

2. La Roque Gageac- This charming village is huddled against a cliff which drops vertically to the river Dordogne. It features attractive little streets with interesting homes, churches, and other buildings, including the Manoir de Tarde, a manor house of the once locally famous Tarde family. One stretch has semi-tropical plant life in abundance, as the protection of the cliff is such that the flora there can survive even in the winter months. A walking path runs behind the buildings at the foot of the cliff and provides great views and pictures. The Troglodyte caves are to be found along here as well, and they are worth a visit.

3. Beynac- About 2 miles down the road is beautiful Beynac. The Chateau de Beynac stands on a remarkable site, rising from the top of a rock as it overlooks the valley spotted with hills crowned with castles. The castle was once captured by Richard the Lion Hearted, and over the years and during numerous wars it was destroyed and then rebuilt. There is a sheer drop of almost 500 ft. from the chateau to the river, and the view is spectacular. The panorama includes the nearby castles of Marqueyssac, Castelnaud, and Fayrac. The village, tucked at the foot of the cliff adjacent to the river, is where the motion picture "Chocolat" was filmed. A steeply sloping footpath known locally as the Caminal del Panieraire (basket maker's path- this was seen in the opening scenes of the film "Chocolat") leads from the bottom of the village, through rows of renaissance houses dating from the 15th to the 17th centuries, to the castle and the church on top. This walk is definitely recommended, but it does get steep toward the top. Tours of the chateau are normally in French, but English language tours are available some mornings. Check with one of the local tourism offices for availability.

4. Castelnaud- This "chateau fort", or fortified castle, stands only about 2 kilometers from the chateau de Beynac, and it was between the two that the battle front between the English and the French shifted during the Hundred Years War. The chateau changed hands between the two sides numerous times. There were several periods of restoration after the middle ages, the last starting recently in 1969. The castle provides superior views of the Dordogne valley, and it also houses a museum of medieval and siege weaponry. One can see several catapults in the courtyard, even from the valley below. There are also two films, one relating to the weapons museum and another about the history of the castle. The surrounding village is quaint, but be prepared for a steep climb on foot to reach the chateau.

5. Sarlat- A bustling town today, Sarlat grew up around a Benedictine abbey founded in the 9th century. The abbots retained their power until the 13th century when internal strife and corruption caused their downfall. The 13th and early 14th centuries were a prosperous time for this busy market town, but the Hundred Years War left it weakened and depopulated. After this came a period of reconstruction, and most of the town houses to be seen today were built between 1450-1500. This has created an architectural unity in renaissance style which is very attractive. If possible, have dinner in one of the many restaurants in the old town and see the village at night as well, as it is attractively lit up. Sarlat's old village has a number of interesting places to visit including the Cathedrale of St. Sacerdos; the Maison de la Boetie, where Etienne de la Boetie, a famous writer and friend of Montaigne, and who also influenced Rousseau, was born; the Hotel de Maleville; among others. There are many charming shops, galleries, and restaurants.

The Dordogne region hosts a number of other interesting sites in addition to the 5 described above. As these sites are within about 10 kilometers of each other, one can visit all of them comfortably in two days. If you have more time to spend in the area, there are other chateaux and gardens to see, as well as canoeing, kayaking, and other activities. The area is very popular among the British and Dutch, many of whom either have second residences in the region or have moved there full time. In my opinion this is one of the prettiest and most pleasant parts of France. The food is excellent, and you cannot visit here without trying confit or magret de canard, duck confit or duck breast. It goes without saying that sampling some foie gras is practically mandatory.

About the Author:

Walt Ballenberger is founder of Beaux Voyages, which provides active tours in France including bike tours in the Lot/Dordogne and other regions, wine tours, and Tour de France bike tours. France travel planned and not sure what venues to visit? Get FREE ADVICE.

Things To Do and See in Dordogne Valley

Font de Gaume,

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, Dordogne Valley
Attraction type: Cavern/cave

Les Combarelles,

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, Dordogne Valley
Attraction type: Cavern/cave

Sarlat Market,

Sarlat-la-Caneda, Dordogne Valley
Every Wednesday and Saturday the great Sarlat market

attracts vendors from the region.
Attraction type: Flea/street market

Chateau de Commarque,

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, Dordogne Valley
Attraction type: Ancient ruins

Roque St-Christophe,

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, Dordogne Valley
Attraction type: Ancient ruins; Cavern/cave