|
|
The
Greek Island of Corfu
Author:
George Nellas
Crescent shaped Corfu, the second largest and most beautiful of the
Ionian Islands (the "Eptanissa" or "Seven Islands") is located in
the north of the Ionian Sea, across from Italy and 3 km from the
Albanian coast on the east. The name is derived from the Greek
"korifo" or summit, which refers to the Acropolis where the city
stands and where refuge was sought from pirates during the Byzantine
period. To the Greeks it is known as Kerkyra, from Corcyra, its
ancient capital city. Verdant and fertile from abundant rainfall and
lavishly picturesque, its great natural beauty and local color is
its enchantment. Unlike the islands of the Cyclades (Mykonos,
Santorini, etc.) the scenery is not composed of white cubic houses
on barren stretches of rock. Corfu is endowed with a landscape of
rustic scenery and woodlands, rich plains, hills, flourishing olive
groves, imposing mountains, valleys, lakes, charming harbors and
bays, long coasts with broad beaches, and traditional villages,
which provide spectacular vistas and quite a variety of destinations
for the tourist. Many powers dominated the island over its long
history but it was the lengthy presence of the Venetians that gave
the island its character and permeated the culture, art, music, and
mostly notably, the architecture, and cuisine. It was the setting
used by many writers from Shakespeare's "The Tempest," to Lawrence
Durell's "Prospero's Cell," and Gerald Durell's, "My Family and
Other Animals."
Inhabited since around 70,000 to 40,00 B.C. (Upper and Middle
Paleolithic periods), it is widely believed the ancient seafaring
Phaeacians resided there (when Homer's Odysseus came ashore before
reaching Ithaca). The colony of Corcyra, the ancient capital, was
settled by Corinth in 734 B.C. and never part of the Golden Age of
Greece but in the Second Peloponnesian War (431-404 B.C.) Athens
came to the aid of Corcyra against Corinth. Under Roman rule in 229
B.C. Corfu opposed Augustus Caesar (31 B.C.) to support Antony and
Cleopatra and was punished by having its monuments destroyed. The
Romans finally lost control; in the 6th century A.D. the Vandals
wrought havoc on the island, and in the 11th century the Normans'
rule was interspersed by the raids and plundering of Crusaders.
After laying siege to Corfu the Byzantines rid the island of the
Normans. The French controlled it in intermittent spurts and then
lost it when Napoleon fell from power.. The Ottomans did not oppress
the island for four hundred years as they did the rest of Greece but
working in partnership with the Russians from 1799 to 1807 they
signed the treaty that formed the "Seven Island State" of Corfu. The
British were the last to rule before it became part of Greece in
1864, and contributed to developing agriculture, building schools,
roads, bridges, administrative buildings, and hospitals. Mussolini
invaded in WW II and when Italy surrendered to the Allies Germany
retaliated by massacring Italians; the whole community of Corfiote
Jews was wiped out.
Indeed the first destination as a tourist is Corfu Town on the east
coast, when coming in by ferry from the port of Igoumenitsa on the
mainland (an hour and a half ride). The visibly green and historic
town seems to spill up onto the promontory and outwards, as the ship
glides in at the dock at Mandouki The town is divided into
districts: the historic center with the old port and Byzantine
Fourio (fortress), the old Venetian neighborhoods of Campiello above
the harbor; Kofineto with the well known Esplanade used for public
events (the cricket pitch at one end was left by the British),
flanked by the arcaded street, Liston, designed during the French
occupation to look like Rue du Rivoli in Paris, now lined with
cafés; the commercial district next to it and the area of the new
fortress with the market and what is left of the old Jewish quarter.
Renovations made after the 1994 EU summit have left it quite
attractive. The old town, with its Venetian air is captivating and
colorful; diverse architectural styles, 18th century shuttered
buildings, a Catholic Church above a steep stairway, narrow
alleyways, clotheslines hung between tenements (a characteristic
feature of Corfu town), tourist shops and boutiques weave an
interesting tapestry.
Numerous worthwhile sites await the tourist. The Archaeological
Museum showcases the well-preserved massive (17m) archaic sculpture
of the Gorgon Medusa from the 6th century B.C. Temple of Artemis at
Corcyra. The impressive Asian Museum, housed in the Palace of Sts.
Michael and George, built as a residence for the British High
Commissioner in 1819 and later used by the Greek monarchy, contains
a fabulous collection of Oriental Art (screens, porcelain, bronze,
etc.) amassed and donated by a Corfiot diplomat. Nearby is a museum
dedicated to the famous 19th century Greek poet, Dionyssios Solomos,
who penned the Greek national anthem. In the restored church of the
Panagia (Our Lady) of Andivouniottissa, the Byzantine Museum houses
a fine collection of church frescoes and mosaics from the site of
Paleopolis (the old city), pre-Christian artifacts, and icons from
the 15th to 19th centuries. The most famous church in the town is
Agios Spyridon, where its patron saint's mummified relics can be
viewed. St. Spyridon (who attended the First Ecumenical Council in
Nicaea in 325 A.D. and for whom much of the island's males and
females is named after) is accredited with saving Corfu from a
plague in 1632 and from famine in the 17th century; during WW II the
church was untouched by Nazi bombs. The relics are paraded in Corfu
town on Palm Sunday, Easter, and August 15th, when the town is
transformed into a stirring spectacle of cramped streets flooded
with townspeople trailing in religious precession (accommodations
are booked solid for those days so plan ahead).
On the outskirts south of the town, the woodland estate of Non
Repos, built in 1824 by the British and given to Greece in 1864 was
the birthplace of Prince Phillip, husband of Britain's Queen
Elizabeth. Its museum contains archaeological finds, period
furniture, and modern exhibits. Temples dedicated to Poseidon and
Hera are on its grounds. Just 4 km south of the town, where once sat
the ancient capital of Corcyra, is a peninsula. The gorgeously green
hill above it, with a stunning vista, is the area of Kanoni where
the French had artillery in 1798 (one cannon remains). At the tip of
Kanoni, below the hill, is the most photographed, tiny, tree filled
islet of Pondikonissi (Mouse Island), one version claims it to be
the petrified ruins of one the Phaeacian ships that took Odysseus
back to Ithaca; Vlaherna and its little white convent of the same
name is the islet next to it, attached to the peninsula by a
causeway.
A huge new water park, "Aqualand" is 9 km west of the town in Agios
Ioannis and offers family activities. There are also many excursions
and boat trips from Corfu town to keep one on the go. In the rustic
village of Gastouri (4.5 km sw) lies the Achillion, the neoclassical
summer palace of the Empress Elizabeth ("Sissy") of Austria, built
in 1890 with an interior of mixed styles and frescoes of heroes and
philosophers. A museum in the morning, at night it turns into a
casino; located on the top floor, it opens onto a romantic terrace,
lined with statutes of the muses and surrounded by a lush, overgrown
terraced garden leading to the sea. The famous statue of Achilles,
her favorite hero, graces the garden; beyond is a magnificient view
of the island.
Touring the island further south on the east coast is the popular
resort town Benitses that has toned down its wild image over the
years; besides lots of accommodation and good food, there is
traditional village with winding streets, a fine shell museum, and
ruins of a Roman bathhouse. Further down at the tourist resorts of
Moraitika and Mesongi the beaches are better and Ano Moraitika has
an unspoilt village a steep walk up At Boukari the coast of pebbled
beaches is quieter and, inland, is the out of the way woodland of
Argirades, ideal for nature lovers and peaceful walks. Almost at the
southern tip inland, amongst lovely olive groves, is Corfu's second
largest town, Lefkimi, situated on the largest plain of the island;
some interesting architecture and several pretty churches can be
seen and as its limits extend to the sea it is a port of call and
has a lovely bay and cape.
Coming up around from the southern tip through Agia Varvara, the
lovely sandy beach sweeps up toward Lake Korission (5km long),
surrounded by dunes and marshes and inhabited by tortoises, turtles,
lizards, indigenous birds. Traveling up past numerous beaches, is
the inviting Halkouna beach and then Prasouda, and Paramonas. Going
inland toward a 13th century castle and further inland are the
wooded slopes of the promontory of Agia Deka; below the peak is a
monastery and flourishing orchards. Back to the beach at Agios
Gordios, popular with backpackers because it's near Mt. Deka and
continuing upward are the best beaches on the west coast. Pelakas,
reknowed for its lovely beach and spectacular sunsets that can be
viewed high above the village at Kaiser's Throne; broad, sandy
Glyfada, and the very charming Myrtiotissa whose praises Lawrence
Durrell sang in "Prospero's Cell" complete the trio. The area has
many large, luxury hotels and facilities for water sports.
Still northbound, the busy resort of Ermones is in a pretty verdant
setting with the mountains in the background. Inland on the Ropas
plain is the Corfu Golf Club which is perhaps one of the largest in
Europe. The stunningly beautiful village of Paleokastritsa with its
coves, luscious greenery, dramatic rocky promontory and
indescribably beautiful blue green water is certainly the gem of
Corfu. It may have been the Homeric city of Scheria where Odysseus
was washed ashore and Nausica brought him to her father, the
Phaeacian King Alkinous. Diving, water sports, and boat trips to
other beaches and seawater caves or grottos offer "fun in the sun"
and fantastic views of the coast. Perched above the village is the
picturesque 13th century monastery of Theotokou that has a museum
with an impressive collection of Orthodox icons and relics of the
church. The ruins of the 13th century Byzantine Fortress of
Angelokastro built by the Despot of Epiros is 6 km up the coast,
accessible from the village of Krini, which offers more spectacular
views from above the coast. Nearby, inland, is another unspoilt
village, Lakonos.
Further up the coast is Agios Georgios, a busy windsurfing center.
The long, sandy beach of Agios Stefanos attracts families; a boat
trip from the harbor is a great way to explore the Diapondia
islands: Erikousa, Othoni, and Manthraki, thinly populated but
boasting stunning views. More tourist resorts wind up around the
northern coast: the hilly and picturesque Avliotes, Sidhari (near
camping facilities), and Roda with its rocky, swampy beach in parts,
camping and horse riding. . Aravi offers a route to the slopes of
Mt. Pandokrator, the island's highest peak, passing small hamlets
like Lafki and Agios Martinos, another entry point to the slopes,
winds north to the western side of the mountain after Pyrgi.
Strinylas is a popular village with walkers. Almyros beach is one of
the longest on the island. Northeast, the Andinioti lagoon, a haven
for birds is near Cape Ekaterinis, the northern end of the Corfu
Trail, a 200 km, ten day hiking path opened in 2001 whose southern
end is at Cape Asprokavos.
Coming down south from the cape is the resort and fishing village of
Kassiopi, another port of entry; it is said that the Roman Emperor
Tiberius once had a villa there and the 16th century church of the
Panagia Kassopitra may have been the site of a temple of Zeus. Not
to be missed: the idyllic setting of the harbor and bay of Kouloura,
amidst the pine trees; Kalami, a quaint village noted for its most
famous resident, Lawrence Durrell, who lived in the White House (now
a taverna) and wrote "Prospero's Cell:" and the cove of Agni where
flocks of people come to taste its exceptionally good Corfiot food.
Winding down the steep mountain road one comes to Barbarti, the best
beach on the northeast coast and popular with families. Closing the
circle, outside of the town to its north is the yachting marina of
Gouvia and the very popular, narrow pebbled beaches and tree-lined
bays of Ipssos and Dassia.
Wherever one goes on Corfu there is always seductively good Corfiot
food beckoning in tavernas be it sofrito, bourdetto, traditional
Greek dishes or fresh grilled fish and an island nightlife of live
Greek music, discos, or local tavernas where guitars strum Corfiot
melodies. Accommodations range from back packers specials to quaint
or modern apartments to luxury hotels in idyllic locations. Whether
its diving in crystal clear waters, walking through olive groves,
mountain biking, sailing, windsurfing, horse back riding, or island
excursions Corfu offers a unique holiday on an island of rich
historical and cultural heritage and much to satisfy one's
curiosity.
About the Author:
Visit
www.MyGreeceTravel.com
to get help in planning, preparing and
organizing
your travel to Corfu and the rest of the Greeck Islands.
Things
To Do and See in Corfu
Kassiopi, Corfu
This tiny, peaceful village dates back to Roman times; visitors can
walk
in the footsteps of ancient greats like Cicero and Emperor Nero.
Attraction type: Historic village
Agios Gordios,
Corfu
A beautiful beach with a wide stretch of sand perfect for lounging
and sun bathing.
Attraction type: Beach
Archaeological
Museum, Corfu
Attraction type: History museum
The Petrakis Line,
Corfu
Attraction type: Tour
Museum of Asian
Art, Corfu
A unique collection of over 1000 pieces of Chinese and Japanese art.
Attraction type: Art museum
You may
also be interested in...
-
Traveler Reviews of
Corfu
-
Top 10 Tourist Attractions in Greece &
Greek Islands - Photo Gallery & Map
-
Unbiased Hotel Reviews, Photos
and Travel Advice
|
TRAVEL & TOURISM INFO
| by Trip Advisor
Tours & Activities in Corfu
Traveler Reviews
Hotels & Hotel Deals
Vacation Packages -
Hotel + Air Deals
Quick Search
(hotel prices & availability) |

DK
Eyewitness Travel Guide:
The Greek Islands

DK
Eyewitness Travel Guide:
Greece - Athens and
the Mainland

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide:
Europe

DK
Eyewitness Travel Guide:
Cruise Guide
to Europe
and the
Mediterranean
About
DK
Eyewitness
Travel
Guide Books:
Each book is a
visual as well
as an informational feast
about a particular place.
There are hundreds of 3-D
aerial maps of districts,
streets and buildings.
The unique graphics show
cutaways and floor plans of
museums and landmark
buildings.
Each guide
-eye witness
travel guide- features a
Travelers' Needs section,
covering accommodations,
restaurants, shops, markets,
entertainment and activities
for children. A Survival Guide
describes airport transfers, local transportation, public
toilets,
crime trends and even
how to use a pay phone.
-The
New York Times
Syndicate-
|
|