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Discover Evora
in the
Alentejo Region of Portugal
Author:
Bert Snijder
Evora is one of Portugal's finest and most delightful towns. It is a
true open-air museum with a large number of wonderfully preserved
monuments and buildings of public interest that led UNESCO to
protect it as a World Heritage Site.
Each age has left its trace on Evora. It was the Celts who named it
Ebora and the Romans gave it its most famous landmark, the Temple of
Diana. Dating from the 2nd century, it is one of the Iberian
Peninsula's best preserved Roman monuments, raised on a
3m(10ft)-high stone platform, with 14 of the original 18 granite
Corinthian columns still standing. The whitewashed houses, arches,
and twisting alleyways that characterize the town reflect the
Moorish presence.
The main square, Praca do Giraldo, is the best place to start a
visit. It was an execution ground during the Inquisition, but is now
filled with shops and cafes, and surrounded by attractive townhouses
with wrought-iron balconies. A fountain erected in 1571 in front of
the Renaissance Santo Antao Church dominates one end of this
spacious square.
From there, the pedestrian Rua 5 de Outubro (lined with souvenir
shops) leads to the Roman temple and Loios Convent. The convent is
now a splendid pousada but anyone can visit its Gothic church
founded in 1485.
The towers of the Se (cathedral), built in 1186 (and where the flags
of Vasco da Gama's ships were blessed before his voyage to India),
are seen from here. It is a blend of Romanesque and Gothic, and on
the portal are 14th century sculpted Apostles. The Gothic interior
has one of the longest naves found in any cathedral in the country,
measuring 70m(230ft), and has a large Renaissance organ, thought to
be the oldest in Europe.
The Gothic cloister with statues of the Evangelists and the Sacred
Art Museum are worth seeing. Its most precious item is a 13th
century ivory Virgin whose body opens out to reveal intricately
carved scenes of her life in nine episodes. Visitors can also climb
up to the roof for a view over the town.
Adjacent to the cathedral is the City Museum, representing Evora's
long history through Roman columns, 16th-century paintings, and
modern sculpture. Among the paintings is a 15th century Holy Virgin
with Child by Alvaro Pires (he is one of the earliest identified
Portuguese artists although a number of his paintings are displayed
in Pisa and Florence in Italy).
A short walk behind the cathedral leads to the Jesuit University,
founded in 1559. It has elegant Renaissance marble cloisters and the
classroom entrances are decorated with tile panels representing each
of the subjects taught.
A staircase beside the cathedral leads down towards Porta da Moura
Square, a picturesque place to rest. It is surrounded by Moorish
architecture and has an interesting spherical Renaissance fountain
dating from 1556.
As you walk around town you will come across some interesting
churches. One of the most eye-catching is Graca Church, a
Renaissance building that is unique in the Iberian Peninsula. Built
in granite, it has four huge figures supporting globes.
But of all the churches, the one that should not be missed is the
Church of Sao Francisco. It is a Manueline-Gothic structure
completed around 1510, and legend has it that Portuguese navigator
Gil Vicente is buried in it.
Not buried, but on display, are the bones and skulls of some 5000
people covering the walls and columns of the church's Chapel of
Bones. The creepiest sight is what looks like the desiccated corpse
of a child, hanging off to the right of the entrance, where a sign
reads "Nossos ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos,"
meaning "We bones that are here, await yours."
After that it is a good idea to take a little break in the
delightful public gardens near the church, which are also home to
the 16th century Dom Manuel Palace. Built in Gothic, Manueline,
neo-Moorish, and Renaissance styles, it was where Vasco da Gama
received his commission to command the fleet that would discover the
sea route to India.
Outside the city walls on the road to the train station is Ermita de
Sao Bras ("Hermitage of St. Blaise"), an extraordinary building that
looks like a medieval castle, complete with large battlements,
gargoyles, and round buttresses. It was built in 1485 in
thanksgiving for survival from the plague.
Also outside the walls is the magnificent Silver Water Aqueduct.
Walk west from Giraldo Square along Rua do Cano to transverse it and
take a look at the houses that were built into its arches.
Around Evora are also numerous prehistoric monuments -- dozens of
sizeable Neolithic menhirs, cromlechs, and dolmens (the one in
Zambujeiro, now a national monument, is the largest in Europe,
consisting of seven stones, each 6m/20ft high, forming a huge
chamber).
The Cromlech of Almendres dating from somewhere between 4000 and
2000 B.C has been called "the Portuguese Stonehenge." It is the most
important megalithic group in the Iberian Peninsula, consisting of a
huge oval of almost one hundred rounded granite monoliths, some
engraved with symbolic markings, assumed to have been used for cult
purposes. They have their origins in a culture that flourished in
the Iberian Peninsula before spreading north as far as Brittany and
Denmark.
A couple of kilometers east is the Cave of Escoural, a cave adorned
with charcoal drawings of horses and other animals, the work of
Cro-Magnon artists some 15,000 years ago. There are free tours
organized on the site.
For more information about these sites, how to get to them, or to
book tours, visit the Evora Tourism Office.
One of Evora's restaurants is also famous throughout the country.
Apparently "O Fialho"'s excellent traditional dishes are reason
enough to drive all the way from Lisbon for dinner.
Evora is less than 2 hours away from Lisbon (there are express buses
departing from the Sete Rios terminal), so it is a possible daytrip
from the capital. However, it makes an ideal base for touring the
Alentejo region and an overnight stay is highly recommended, as the
town is especially evocative when floodlit at night.
About the
Author:
Alentejo Home is the Real Estate specialist in the Alentejo region
of Portugal
between
Lisbon and the Algarve. Find out how we can make your
dream come true at
Alentejo Home Real Estate.
Things
To Do and See in Evora
Cathedral of Evora (Se), Evora
This 12th century Roman-Gothic cathedral is home to valuable
christian object: wood that is said to be from Christ's cross.
Attraction type: Historic site; Religious site
Temple of Diana,
Evora
When visiting Évora, known as the "Museum City of Portugal," you
will
find the Roman Temple of Diana, erected in the second century.
Attraction type: Religious site
Igreja de Nossa
Senhora de Graca, Evora
Attraction type: Religious site
Igreja de Sao Joao
Evangelista, Evora
Attraction type: Religious site
Chapel of Bones
(Capela dos Ossos), Evora
One tip: buy a photography permit when you visit the chapel, it only
costs
50 cents
and allows you to take unlimited photos, much better than buying a
postcard.
Attraction type: Religious site; Landmark/point of interest
Praca do Giraldo, Evora
This picturesque central square is adorned with medieval arches
and
is an ideal place to relax and do some people-watching.
Attraction type: Town center/square/plaza
Igreja Real de Sao
Francisco, Evora
Attraction type: Religious site
Universidade de
Evora, Evora
Attraction type: Historic site
Igreja de
Misericordia, Evora
Attraction type: Historic site
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